Royal Caribbean International

Overview

	Address	1050 Caribbean Way, Miami, FL 33132
	Phone	800/327-6700 or 305/539-6000
	Fax	800/722-5329
	Online	www.royalcaribbean.com
	Enjoyment Factor	5
	Dining	4
	Activities	5
	Children's Program	4
	Entertainment	4
	Service	4
	Overall Value	5

The Line in a Nutshell

Royal Caribbean offers some of the most activity-packed, best-looking, best-designed, and just plain fun megaships in the biz. Along with NCL, they're also out in the forefront of innovation, always challenging the status quo regarding what can and can't be done aboard ships. Sails to: Caribbean, Panama Canal, Alaska, Mexican Riviera, Bermuda, Hawaii, Canada/New England.

The Experience

Though still trailing industry-leader Carnival in terms of size and profit, Royal Caribbean has definitely taken the lead in the excitement and cool-appeal department. You've seen the ads: healthy 30- and 40-somethings hiking across a glacier, kayaking through crystal water, or climbing up a sheer rock face as Iggy Pop's "Lust for Life" plays on the soundtrack, then sipping wine on deck as the sun goes down. That's obviously the Madison Avenue take, but the weird thing is, it isn't all just hype: Somehow, Royal Caribbean has managed to turn the "overfed, newly wed, almost dead" cruise stereotype on its ear, and revved up a more youthful product that delivers fun, humor, a touch of class, and a bit of "feel the burn" active excitement, all without charging an arm and a leg. Cruises on these fun, active, and glamorous (but not too over-the-top-glitzy) megaships offer a great experience for a wide range of people, whether your idea of a good time is getting super-active or relaxing in the Solarium pool. There are huge children's centers for the kids, and entertainment for adults is varied and sometimes even novel: The Voyager-class ships even have a resident troupe of clowns that teach juggling, clown history, and makeup application when not doing their act. Decor-wise, these ships are a shade or two toned down from the Carnival brood: Rather than trying to overwhelm the senses, many of their public areas are understated and classy. The Radiance-class vessels are the line's most elegant to date, with a sophistication that's up near the level of Royal Caribbean's sister-line, Celebrity Cruises.

Pros

• Activity central: With rock-climbing walls, miniature golf, basketball courts, and even ice skating among the many diversions, these ships are tops in the adrenaline department.
• Beautiful public areas: Lounges, restaurants, and outdoor pool decks are well designed, spacious, glamorous, and just plain inviting.
• Great solariums: The indoor-outdoor solariums on the Vision-, Voyager- and especially the Radiance-class ships are oh-so-relaxing oases designed around a theme (Venice, Africa, and so forth), a pool, and a pair of enormous whirlpool tubs.

Cons

• Small cabins on the older ships: At just about 120 to 160 square feet, most cabins aboard the Vision- and Sovereign-class ships and Empress of the Seas are downright tiny, ranking with NCL's as the smallest in the mainstream category.

Silversea Cruises

Overview

	Address	110 E. Broward Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301
	Phone	800/722-9955
	Fax	954/522-4499
	Online	www.silversea.com
	Enjoyment Factor	5
	Dining	5
	Activities	3
	Children's Program	N/A
	Entertainment	2
	Service	5
	Overall Value	4

The Line in a Nutshell

It doesn't get better than free-flowing Philipponnat Royale Reserve champagne and marble bathrooms stocked with wonderful Bulgari bath products. These gorgeous ships offer the best of everything.

The Experience

Fine-tuned and genteel, a Silversea cruise caters to guests who won't settle for anything but the best. The food and service are the best at sea, and the ships' Italian-style decor is warm and inviting. Nothing seems to have been forgotten in the creation of the plush Silversea fleet. Tables are set with Christofle silver and Schott-Zwiesel crystal. These are dignified vessels for a dignified crowd that likes to dress for dinner. If you want the VIP treatment 24-7, this is your cruise line.

Pros

• Doting service: Gracious and ultraprofessional, the Silversea crew knows how to please well-traveled guests with high expectations.
• Truly all-inclusive: Unlimited wines and spirits, including the house champagne (Philipponnat Royale Reserve), as well as tips, are included in the rates.
• Excellent cuisine: Rivaling the best restaurants ashore, cuisine is as exquisite as it gets at sea. Each ship has two alternative venues for dinner, buffets are bountiful, and the room-service menu includes such extravagant snacks as jumbo shrimp.
• Large staterooms and great bathrooms: At 287 square feet, plus 58-square-foot balconies, Silver Whisper's staterooms are bigger than Seabourn's and Crystal's, and the huge marble bathrooms are the best at sea (along with those on Seven Seas Navigator and Voyager).

Cons

• Stuffy crowd: Of course, not every guest fits that bill, but expect a good portion of the crowd on any cruise to be, shall we say, reserved.

Windstar Cruises

Overview

	Address	300 Elliott Ave. W., Seattle, WA 98119
	Phone	800/258-7245 or 206/281-3535
	Fax	206/281-0627
	Online	www.windstarcruises.com
	Enjoyment Factor	5
	Dining	3
	Activities	2
	Children's Program	N/A
	Entertainment	2
	Service	3
	Overall Value	4

The Line in a Nutshell

The no-jackets-required policy defines this line's casually elegant attitude. These sleek, small ships really do feel like private yachts -- they're down-to-earth, yet service and cuisine are first-class.

The Experience

Windstar offers a truly unique cruise experience, giving passengers the delicious illusion of adventure aboard its fleet of four- and five-masted sailing ships, along with the ever-pleasant reality of first-class cuisine, service, and itineraries. This is no barefoot, rigging-pulling, paper-plates-in-lap, sleep-on-the-deck kind of cruise, but a refined yet down-to-earth, yachtlike experience for a sophisticated, well-traveled crowd who wouldn't be comfortable on a big ship with throngs of tourists.

On board, stained teak, brass details, and lots of navy-blue fabrics and carpeting lend a traditional nautical ambience. While the ships' proud masts and white sails cut a traditional profile, they're also ultra-state-of-the-art, controlled by a computer so that they can be furled or unfurled at the touch of a button. When at all possible, the captain shuts off the engines and moves by sail only, to give passengers a real taste of the sea. Under full sail, the calm tranquillity is utterly blissful.

Pros

• Cuisine: The ambience, service, and imaginative cuisine created by renowned Los Angeles chef Joachim Splichal is very good. Seating in the restaurants is open, and guests can usually get a table for two.
• Informal and unregimented days: This line offers the most casual high-end cruise out there -- an approach much loved by passengers who enjoy fine service and cuisine but want to leave their jackets and pantyhose at home.
• Itineraries: The ships typically visit a port every day, and they're wonderfully less touristed than many of those called on by the megaships.

Cons

• Limited activities and entertainment: This is intentional, but if you need lots of organized hoopla to keep you happy, you won't find much here.
• No verandas: If they're important to you, you're out of luck

An Online Update for Frommer's Maui

Already one of the most popular islands on the planet, Maui's popularity soared in 2005. The end of 2005 expects a record breaking 2.3 million tourists, and even more visitors are predicted in 2006. Occupancy rates in hotels are running 87 percent, and during peak periods, in the high 90's. What this means to visitors is book in advance, especially the very popular summer months and Christmas vacation. Don't expect "deals" during these months, but with a little advanced planning, you can find plenty of bargains during the rest of the year.

Here's a roundup of the changes that have occurred in Hawaii since the publication of Frommer's Hawaii 2006.

With more visitors coming to Maui, the airlines have increased the number of flights, and in some cases, added new flights. Low-cost carrier American West (tel. 800/327-7810; www.americanwest.com), which currently has flights from Phoenix to Maui through its code-share partner, Hawaiian Airlines, will begin its own nonstop service Maui on December 16, 2005. Nonstop service between Maui and Las Vegas will be added in March 2006.

Hawaiian Airlines (tel. 800/367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com) has nonstop flights to Seattle and Portland. Aloha Airlines (tel. 800/367-5250; www.alohaairlines.com) added a direct fight from Maui to San Diego to compliment their other nonstop flights to Sacramento, Oakland, and Orange County.

A new airline start up, FlyHawaii Airlines (tel. 808/599-5588; www.flyhi.com) claims it is still on target to have its low-cost, interisland turboprop planes up and running by the first quarter of 2006. The ATR72 aircrafts, which seat 68 passengers, will start with daily flights between Honolulu and Maui. Chris Parsons, FlyHawaii's Vice President of Administration, says that tickets will cost about $50 one-way (currently Hawaiian and Aloha Airlines offer tickets starting at $79 one-way).

Beginning in early 2007, the Hawaii Superferry (www.hawaiisuperferry.com) will provide interisland ferry service between the islands at an estimated cost of $42-$70 each way. In addition to carrying 900 passengers, the 385-foot, wave-piercing catamaran will also carry 282 vehicles and travel up to 45 miles an hour (a three hour travel time from Honolulu to Maui). The $75 million vessel is currently under construction.

The Norwegian Cruise Line (tel. 800/327-7030; www.ncl.com) has added the 2,144-passenger ship, Pride of America, to join the Pride of Aloha, in 7-day cruises around the Hawaiian Islands, stopping on Kauai, Oahu, Maui, and both sides of the Big Island.

The biggest change in accommodations is Aston Resorts, which managed nine different hotels and condominiums on Maui, will be re-branded this month as ResortQuest properties (tel. 877/ 997-6667; www.resortquesthawaii.com).

Destination Resorts Hawaii (tel. 800/367-5246; www.drhmaui.com) is now offering the terrific amenity of free long distances calls (yes, you can call New York City or Abu Dhabi for free) at all their condominium properties in Wailea and Makena (Wailea Ekolu Village, Wailea Grand Champions Villas, Wailea Ekahi Village, Wailea Elua Village, Polo Beach Club, and Makena Surf). In other news, all their properties have high speed Internet access, free parking, and the Polo Beach Club is completely non-smoking (no smoking on the lanais, units, pool or even the Jacuzzi).

Even if you can't make it to Maui this year, the Hale Pau Hana Resort (tel. 800/367-6036; www.hphresort.com), in Kihei, has a live web-cam covering Kamaole Beach Park II, so you can lust over the terrific weather and the tropical setting.

In Kaanapali, the Sheraton Maui Resort (tel. 800/782-9466; www.sheraton.com/maui) is continuing renovations to the 510-unit property with new carpeting, wallpaper, furniture upholstery, and the new Sheraton "Sweet Sleeper Bed" (with dreamy pillow top mattress, high coil count, and "Stay True Foam" to guarantee you will sleep in absolute comfort). In addition, all the rooms are now wired for high-speed Internet access. Unlimited access is part of the daily resort amenity charge ($17 a day). For children, the resort has just started a "Bubble Makers" Junior Scuba Class designed for kids ages eight and up, where they learn scuba skills and underwater safety while hunting for sea treasures. Fee is $49 per child.

Just down the Kaanapali Beach, the Royal Lahaina Resort (tel. 800/44-ROYAL; www.hawaiihotels.com) has re-opened the Don the Beachcomber Mai Tai Bar, outfitted in tropical decor and serving a variety of Polynesian liquid libations from 6pm to midnight daily.

Additional entertainment is available at the Royal Lahaina Luau, every Sunday, and Tuesday to Friday evenings, cost is $77 for adults and $38 for children 12 and under.

Speaking of luau, the best luau in the state, The Old Lahaina Luau (tel. 800/248-5828; www.oldlahainaluau.com) is adding a new day program, Ho'omana'o, on Wednesday and Friday, 8:30 to 11am, which serves a huge breakfast (frittata, island-stuffed French toast, Kalua pork hash, haupia oatmeal, scrambled eggs, potatoes, bacon, sausage, fruit, assorted pastries as well as coffee, tea, and juice), provides Hawaiian entertainment, and offers interactive cultural experiences centered around hula, warfare, agriculture and fishing. Tickets are $69 for adults, $49 for children 12 and under. They suggest that children seven and older are more appropriate because of the emphasis on education.

The latest restaurant to open on Maui is the Pineapple Grill at Kapalua Resort (200 Kapalua Dr., Kapalua; tel. 808/66909600; www.pineapplekapalua.com), where Chef Joey Macadangdang (former protege of Roy Yamaguchi and executive chef at Roy's Kihei) has created a new twist on Pacific Islands cuisine with such Asian/Filipino dishes as Asian-style bouillabaisse (with lemongrass) or Lehua honey-cured pork chops. Entrees range from $26-$32. The restaurant sits atop Pineapple Hill overlooking the Bay Golf Course and the ocean. If you can tear your eyes away from that view, an exhibition kitchen at the entry is worth a look, with a black-marble bar with plasma-screen TVs and a dining room subdivided into themed mini-rooms.

If you are headed to Haleakala National Park, a new 2,800 square foot store/deli has just opened, Kula Marketplace (tel. 808/878-2135), next door to the Kula Lodge on Kekauleke Highway. A great place to stop to pick up lunch, the open beam market has everything from gourmet food to fine art (plus Maui-made products, women and children's clothes, jewelry, local produce, and an assortment of foods to go). The market is divided into various themes: the Upcountry Garden, Wine Cellar, Favorite Things, Local Flavors, Health is Wealth, and Must Haves. Open daily from 8 am to 7 pm.

Now you can whip up your favorite Maui Taco dishes at home with Maui Tacos Cookbook (www.mauitacoscookbook.com) by Maui Taco restaurant founder, Chef Mark Ellman, and writer Barbara Santos. The great dishes served in the seven Maui Tacos restaurants in Hawaii and 14 on the mainland are detailed in the 80 different recipes.

The Pacific Whale Foundation (tel. 800/942-5311; www.pacificwhale.org) has opened a new Interpretive Center in their Ocean Science Discovery Center, in the Harbor Shops at Maalaea. The free center has displays on whales, dolphins, sea turtles, and other ocean critters, video showings, and a tide pool with live animals. Open daily 10 am to 3pm.

The Sunset Jazz Show, every Sunday from 5 to 8 pm, joins the lineup of free entertainment at the Whalers Village (tel. 808/661-4567; www.whalersvillage.com), in Kaanapali. Center stage features the who's who of the jazz world, from George Benson to Paul Marchetti to John Zangrado. Other free entertainment at the Whaler's Village include: the Drums of Tahiti with Polynesian Dancers; a Polynesian Hula Show; and a Tahitian Dance.

The popular Maui Swap Meet (tel. 808/877-3100), located next door to the Kahului Post Office on S. Puunene Ave. for the past 15 years, now has one year to find a new home. Maui County wants the property to build affordable senior housing, so the 200 plus vendors are searching for a new location. Some 3,200 shoppers attend the Saturday Swap Meet, making the options limited. Will Wong, who heads up the Swap Meet, said he is negotiating with Maui Community College for space, as well as looking at other locations.

On the Island of Molokai

Until December 25, 2005, The Lodge and Beach Villas at Molokai Ranch (tel. 888/627-8082; www.molokairanch.com) is offering a Spirit of Molokai Package, which includes accommodations, breakfast, and a choice of either 18 holes of golf, 50 minute massage, or horseback riding for $138 for the Beach Village (rack rates are $268-$358, without breakfast or activity) or $178 at the Lodge (rack rates are $398-$478, without breakfast or activity).

On the Island of Lanai

After $40 million in extensive renovations to include the addition of a new 1,734-square foot fitness center and a 688-square foot "indoor movement studio," the Manele Bay Hotel (tel. 800/321-4664; www.lanai-resorts.com) will be re-branded the Four Seasons Resort-Lanai at Manele Bay on October 1, 2005. The hotel will be closed from Aug. 16 to Sept. 16 for the completion of the work. The staff will go through the rigorous Four Seasons training in service. The current 800-phone number for reservations will remain, along with the Four Seasons' reservations number, tel. 800/ 819-5053. Rates for 2006 will be $375-$925 and suites will start at $800. The sister hotel, located in Lanai City, The Lodge at Koele, will begin renovations next year to bring it up to the famous Four Seasons standards and will be re-branded in late 2006.

A new outdoor film series has begun on Lanai called Stars Under the Stars. Presented by the Lanai Art Center (tel. 808/565-7503; www.lanaiart.org), a film from the American Film Institute's "All-Time Top 100-Films" list will be shown on a 16-foot screen in the Dole Park in Lanai City every first Wednesday of the month. The free film begins at sunset and is preceded by live entertainment.

Talk with other travelers on our Hawaii Message Boards today.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip

The Best of Hawaii

		The Best of Hawaii

		Best Dining Bets The Best Beaches The Best Cultural Experiences The Best Golf Courses The Best Luxury Hotels		The Best Moderately Priced Hotels The Best Natural Attractions The Best Family Hotels & Resorts The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails		The Best of Underwater Hawaii The Best Resorts & Spas The Best Island Experiences The Best Websites

		Complete Guide to Hawaii

		Introduction Best Dining Bets, The Best Beaches, The Best Cultural Experiences, more... Planning a Trip Fast Facts, Visitor Information, When to Go, more... For Foreign Visitors Fast Facts, Preparing for Your Trip, Getting to the U.S., more...		In Depth Cuisine, Environment, History, more... Active Pursuits Bird Watching, Boating, Bodyboarding & Bodysurfing, more... Message Boards

		Islands in Hawaii

		Hawaii (The Big Island) Kauai		Lanai Maui		Molokai Oahu

		National Parks and Monuments in Hawaii

Volcanoes National Park

Best Dining Bets

The Best Dining, Hawaii Style

Tropical Fruit: Mangosteen, the queen of fruit in Indonesia, is the sensation at the Hilo Farmers Market on the Big Island. Mangosteen's elegant purple skin and soft, white, floral-flavored flesh (like litchi, but more custardlike) make this fruit a sure winner.

The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late spring and summer. Hayden mangoes are universally loved for their plump, juicy flesh and brilliant skins. White Piries, with their resinous flavor and fine, fiberless flesh, are even better; this rare and ambrosial variety can be found in Honolulu's Chinatown or at roadside fruit stands in rural Oahu. Watch for the Rapoza, a new species of large, sweet, fiberless mango introduced to Hawaii several years ago.

Kahuku papayas -- firm, fleshy, dark orange, and so juicy they sometimes squirt -- are the ones to watch for on menus and in markets; check out the roadside stands in Kahuku on Oahu, and at supermarkets. Sunrise papayas from Kapoho and Kauai are also top-notch.

White, acid-free, extra-sweet, and grown on Kauai and the Big Island, Sugarloaf pineapples are the new rage. Hilo is the town for litchis (also known as lychees) in summer, but Honolulu's Chinatown markets carry them, too. Ka'u oranges, grown in the volcanic soil of the southern Big Island, are available in supermarkets and health-food stores. Don't be fooled by their brown, ugly skin -- they're juicy, thin-skinned, and sweet as honey.

Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin, pho, pasta, chow mein -- Hawaii is the epicenter of ethnic noodle stands and houses, with many recommendable and inexpensive choices. Jimbo's Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/947-2211), a neighborhood staple, is tops for freshly made udon with generous toppings and a homemade broth. On the neighbor islands, noodle-mania prevails at Hamura's Saimin Stand (Kauai; tel. 808/245-3271), where saimin and teriyaki sticks have replaced hamburgers and pizza as the late-night, comfort-food tradition. Nori's Saimin & Snacks (Big Island; tel. 808/935-9133) is the place in charming Hilo for consummate saimin of every stripe.

Plate Lunches: Zippy's (21 locations throughout Oahu; call tel. 808/973-0880 for the one nearest you) is a household word in Hawaii. Other favorite plate-lunch spots on Oahu include Kakaako Kitchen (tel. 808/596-7488), Ward Centre, serving dinner at indoor and outdoor tables; I ♥ Country Cafe (tel. 808/596-8108); and Yama's Fish Market (tel. 808/941-9994), where the chocolate/macadamia nut cookies and chocolate biscotti have legions of fans. On Maui, Pauwela Cafe (tel. 808/575-9242) serves gourmet feasts from a tiny kitchen, and Aloha Mixed Plate (tel. 808/661-3322) lets you nosh on fabulous shoyu chicken at ocean's edge -- and with a mai tai, too. On Kauai, Pono Market (tel. 808/822-4581), Fish Express (tel. 808/245-9918), and Koloa Fish Market (tel. 808/742-6199) are at the top of the plate-lunch pyramid.

Shave Ice: Like surfing, shave ice is synonymous with Haleiwa, the North Shore Oahu town where Matsumoto Shave Ice (tel. 808/637-4827) serves mounds of the icy treat. Shave ice is even better over ice cream and adzuki beans.

Other Mighty Morsels: Poi biscotti from the Poi Company, available at supermarkets and gourmet outlets, is a new taste treat, the consummate accompaniment to another island phenomenon, Kona coffee. Coffee growers of highest esteem (all based on the Big Island, of course), include: Rooster Farms (tel. 808/328-9173), which sells and ships only organic coffees; Bong Brothers (tel. 808/328-9289); Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company (tel. 808/322-1700); Langenstein Farms (tel. 808/328-8356); and Holualoa Kona Coffee Company (tel. 800/334-0348).

The buttery, chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies of Big Island Candies (Big Island; tel. 808/935-8890) are worth every calorie and every dollar. If you're going through Waimea, don't miss Cook's Discoveries (Big Island; tel. 808/885-3633), where the superlatives never end -- the best cookies, preserves, vinegars, poi, and many other marvelous taste treats. From Kauai, Hanapepe town's venerable Taro Ko taro chips (tel. 808/335-5586 for the factory) are the crunchy snack neighbor islanders drive long miles to find.

The Best Restaurants

Alan Wong's Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/949-2526): Master strokes at this shrine of Hawaii Regional Cuisine include warm California rolls made with salmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lobster instead of rice; luau lumpia with butterfish and kalua pig; and ginger-crusted fresh onaga. Opihi shooters and day-boat scallops in season are a must, and grilled lamb chops are a perennial special. The menu changes daily, but the flavors never lose their sizzle.

Chef Mavro Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/944-4714): Honolulu is abuzz over the wine pairings and elegant cuisine of George Mavrothalassitis, the culinary wizard and James Beard award-winner from Provence who turned La Mer (at the Halekulani) and Seasons (at the Four Seasons Resort Wailea) into temples of fine dining. He brought his award-winning signature dishes with him and continues to prove his ingenuity with dazzling a la carte and prix-fixe ($56-$93) menus.

Hoku's (Oahu; tel. 808/739-8780): Elegant without being stuffy, and creative without being overwrought, the fine-dining room of the Kahala Mandarin offers elegant lunches and dinners and one of Oahu's best Sunday brunches. This is fusion that really works -- European finesse with an island touch. The ocean view, open kitchen, and astonishing bamboo floor are stellar features. Reflecting the restaurant's cross-cultural influences, the kitchen is equipped with a kiawe grill, an Indian tandoori oven, and Szechuan woks.

La Mer (Oahu; tel. 808/923-2311): This romantic, elegant dining room at Waikiki's Halekulani is the only AAA Five-Diamond restaurant in the state. The second-floor, open-sided room, with views of Diamond Head and the sound of trade winds rustling the nearby coconut fronds, is the epitome of fine dining. Michelin-award-winning chef Yves Garnier melds classical French influences with fresh island ingredients. It's pricey but worth it. Men are required to wear jackets (they have a selection if you didn't pack one).

Padovani's Restaurant & Wine Bar (Oahu; tel. 808/946-3456): Chef Philippe Padovani's elegant, innovative style is highlighted in everything from the endive salad to the pan-fried moi at this two-tiered restaurant. Downstairs is a swank dining room with Bernardaud china and Frette linens; upstairs is the informal Wine Bar with excellent single-malt Scotches, wines by the glass, and a much more casual, but equally sublime, menu.

Roy's Restaurant (Oahu; tel. 808/396-7697): Good food still reigns at this busy, noisy flagship Hawaii Kai dining room with the trademark open kitchen. Roy Yamaguchi's deft way with local ingredients, nostalgic ethnic preparations, and fresh fish makes his menu, which changes daily, a novel experience every time.

Merriman's (Big Island; tel. 808/885-6822): Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, displays his creativity at this Waimea eatery, a premier Hawaii attraction. Dishes include his signature wok-charred ahi, kung pao shrimp, or lamb from nearby Kahua Ranch. His famous platters of seafood and meats are among the many reasons this is still the best -- and busiest -- dining spot in Waimea.

Gerard's (Maui; tel. 808/661-8939): The charm of Gerard's -- soft lighting, Edith Piaf on the sound system, excellent service -- is matched by a menu of uncompromising standards. A frequent winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, Gerard's offers French cuisine with the chef's own island touches. Located in an old Victorian house (ask for a table on the lanai outside), Gerard's has a dreamy, romantic atmosphere and innovative cuisine that will linger in your memory.

Haliimaile General Store (Maui; tel. 808/572-2666): Bev Gannon, 1 of the 12 original Hawaii Regional Cuisine chefs, is still going strong at her foodie haven in the pineapple fields. You'll dine at tables set on old wood floors under high ceilings, in a peach-colored room emblazoned with works by local artists. Gannon's Texas roots shine through in her food, a blend of eclectic American with ethnic touches that puts an innovative spin on Hawaii Regional Cuisine.

Vino Italian Tapas and Wine Bar (Maui; tel. 808/661-VINO): Probably the best Italian food on Maui is served at this exquisite restaurant, overlooking the rolling hills of the Kapalua Golf Course. The surprise is that it's run by two Japanese guys -- D.K. Kodama, chef and owner of Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar and master sommelier Chuck Furuya. The menu changes constantly but always has homemade pastas and seafood masterpieces. Every dish is perfectly paired with wine (the wine list alone features more than 150 selections, many of them estate wines exclusive to Vino).

Henry Clay's Rotisserie (Lanai; tel. 808/565-7211): Henry Clay Richardson, a New Orleans native, has made some welcome changes to Lanai's dining landscape with his rustic inn in the middle of Lanai City. It's very popular and always full. Maybe that's because it's the only option on Lanai that occupies the vast gap between deli-diner and upscale-luxe. The menu focuses on French-country fare, gourmet pizzas, and crispy salads in a quaint, country-inn atmosphere.

A Pacific Café Kauai (Kauai; tel. 808/822-0013): The first restaurant Jean-Marie Josselin opened is still the reigning fave. The signature items (tiger-eye sushi, garlic-crisped mahimahi) are staples. Foodies agree: It's the way Josselin uses Kauai produce and seafood that gives this dining room the edge.

Dondero's (Kauai; tel. 808/742-1234): If you are looking for a romantic dinner, Dondero's is hard to beat. Dine either under the stars overlooking the ocean or tucked away at an intimate table surrounded by inlaid marble floors, ornate imported floor tiles, and Franciscan murals. You get all this atmosphere plus the best Italian cuisine on the island, served with efficiency. It's hard to have a bad experience here. Dinners are pricey but worth every penny.

Hawaii Best Beaches

Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gorgeous to be real, this stretch along the Windward Coast is one of Hawaii's postcard-perfect beaches -- a mile of golden sand as soft as powdered sugar bordering translucent turquoise waters. The waters are calm year-round and excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tiny offshore islands complete the picture, functioning not only as scenic backdrops but also as bird sanctuaries.

Hapuna Beach (Big Island): This 1/2-mile-long crescent regularly wins kudos in the world's top travel magazines as the most beautiful beach in Hawaii -- some consider it one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. One look and you'll see why: Perfect cream-colored sand slopes down to crystal-clear waters that are great for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurfing in summer; come winter, waves thunder in like stampeding horses. The facilities for picnicking and camping are top-notch, and there's plenty of parking.

Kapalua Beach (Maui): On an island with many great beaches, Kapalua takes the prize. This golden crescent with swaying palms is protected from strong winds and currents by two outstretched lava-rock promontories. Its calm waters are perfect for snorkeling, swimming, and kayaking. The beach borders the Kapalua Bay Hotel, but it's long enough for everyone to enjoy. Facilities include showers, restrooms, and lifeguards.

Papohaku Beach (Molokai): These gold sands stretch on for some 3 miles (it's one of Hawaii's longest beaches) and are about as wide as a football field. Offshore the ocean churns mightily in winter, but the waves die down in summer, making the calm waters inviting for swimming. It's also great for picnicking, walking, and watching sunsets.

Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): This golden, palm-fringed beach off the south coast of Lanai gently slopes down to the azure waters of a Marine Life Conservation District, where clouds of tropical fish flourish and spinner dolphins come to play. A tide pool in the lava rocks defines one side of the bay, while the other is lorded over by the Manele Bay Hotel, which sits prominently on the hill above. Offshore you'll find good swimming, snorkeling, and diving; onshore there's a full complement of beach facilities, from restrooms to camping areas.

Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed by verdant cliffs, this curvaceous North Shore beach has starred as Paradise in many a movie. It's easy to see why Hollywood loves Haena Beach, with its grainy golden sand and translucent turquoise waters. Summer months bring calm waters for swimming and snorkeling, and winter brings mighty waves for surfers. There are plenty of facilities on hand, including picnic tables, restrooms, and showers.